48 hours in Tilos

Unlike the colorful houses in neighboring Symi and Chalki, Tilos has whitewashed houses and a special charm. In this island of the Dodecanese with the green hills and medieval castles, you are free to be yourself.

Day One

10 am.
Check in to Ilidi Rock. Beautiful complex, hanging almost from the rocks at the edge of the harbor, with comfortable rooms and two small beaches just below it (tel .: +302246044293, www.ilidirock.gr). 

Sea View Nice hotel with ten apartments and a suite with orange mosquito nets, colorful linen blankets, flat screen TVs and equipment that includes up to iron. Large bathrooms and verandas overlooking the harbor and the Livadia, with rattan furniture and large cloth umbrellas (Livadia, tel .: +3022460 44427, www.seaview-tilos.gr). Dream Island Cycladic architectural complex with bright and spacious apartments with terrace. Small, private beach in front of it with umbrellas and sun loungers (tel. +3022460 70707, www.dreamisland.gr).

Dream Island

11 am
Head to the beach of Livadia, a few meters from the harbor. It begins with gravel and gradually ends up in sand. You will windsurf, canoe and sunbathing in the comfortable chairs that are offered under the shade of armywood along the entire beach.

Dolphin Anthony is fishing with his boat and serves shrimp, squid, octopus and whatever else has his net. His wife, Eleni, cooks goat in lemon sauce, oven baked pork and chicken in tomato sauce (Agios Antonis, tel .: +3022460 44252, from € 10 per person).

Walk to Livadia, where all the liners, fishing boats and private pleasure boats tie. The settlement retains its traditional style, built between the bay and a lush valley, thanks to the springs. Look at the port of the colonial-style building of the Police Department built during the years of the Italian occupation (1912-1948) and visit the nearby church of Agios Nikolaos. Walking through the streets of the settlement you will find many rooms to let, taverns, ouzo and cafes overlooking the sea. At the top of the mountain over the village dominates the sixteenth Castle of Agiosycia.

Wander around Megalo Chorio, the capital of Tilos, spreading amphitheatrically at the foot of the steep hill of Agios Stephanos, keeping intact elements from the traditional Dodecanese architecture. It is 7 km from Livadia and in 1827 the construction of its buildings and the incorporation of ancient remains of buildings have begun. An example of the traditional architecture of its buildings is the City Hall, primary school and library, the small palaeontological museum that includes fossilized elephant dwarf bones and other finds from the excavations at the Harcadio cave of Messaria. The neighboring square offers generously the fragrances and colors of its garden with its bougainvillea, its hibiscus and its roses. This point is the best place to distinguish the valley and the bay of Eristos from the south.

Dinner at Armenon. Two steps from the beach of Livadia, Nikos and Beba prepare a shrimp and rotisserie, a captain's salad with shrimp, octopus, tuna, crab and smoked salmon, local goat stuffed, pitcher lamb, pork with groats. For closing, yogurt with honey or sweet spoon, walnut pie and baklava (tel .: +3022460 44134, from €15 per person).

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